20,000 Steps in Athens!

Wednesday May 28 was a mix of sun and cloud with a high of 27C.  We decided we wanted to return to a coffee shop we had visited in 2017.  It was in the Thissio neighbourhood not too far from the Agora.  We walked to the nearest Metro and took it two stops to Monastiraki and then walked from there.

There was an area within the Monastiraki Metro station that contained remains of various settlements dating from the 8th century BC to the 19th century AD.  The settlements came to light during the construction of the Monastiraki station.   The underground river bed of the Eridanos river (the ancient "River of Hades" was also discovered inside the station.

History is ever-present in Athens- even in a busy metro station

We walked by the Ancient Agora of Athens, a large public square northwest of the hill of the Acropolis.  The Agora was the heart of public life in the city.  Here democraccy was born and flourished.  

The Ancient Agora of Athens

At the birthplace of democracy

Parthenon and Acropolis in the distance

It was about a ten minute walk to The Underdog, a specialty coffee roasting company.  It was about 12:30 p.m. when we arrived.  It is a large coffee shop with a substantial patio on the lower level.  The coffee was very good and we bought some beans. We chatted with the barista who was from Athens but had lived in Toronto for ten years until three months ago.  He had been a barista in Toronto and we compared notes on favourite coffee shops.  We ended up buying some beans and he treated us to an extra latte and gave Allan an Underdog pin.

Allan in coffee heaven-- beans and Underdog socks

We shared an avocado toast

Downstairs large patio area where some folks had set up for work.

They use a UK brand of oat milk called (Un)Ordinary: no sugar and two cartons
sitting side by side become a cool coffee rabbit.

We wanted to explore the neighbourhood a bit more and saw some signage for an exhibit at the Centre for the Study of Modern Ceramics- G. Psaropoulos Foundation.  It was founded in 1993 by Betty Psaropoulou.  It is a museum and an educational and research organization dedicated to Greek pottery of the 19th and 20th centuries.   

Outside of the Museum

The Museum has a permanent exhibit and also has temporary exhibitions of traditional and modern ceramics.  There are also ceramics courses and a small gift shop.

Picture of building before its renovation

The temporary exhibit was entitled Takimi II, Reconnections and it showcased the work of two French ceramicists (Olga Vlassi and Auréline Caltagirone), which they created during their 2024 residency at the French Lodging in Rhodes.  The exhibit was organized by the French Institue of Greece and the Museum. There was a written introduction to the exhibit by the French ambassador to Greece.

Poster for the exhibit

Tiles from the exhibit

Auréline Caltagirone, "Earthquake 6.3".

Auréline Caltagioone- "Cercle"

The temporary exhibit was in one room and then we explored the permanent exhibit in a series of very small rooms.

Small room with pottery

Collection of older pottery

More modern works from the colleciton of the Museum

Vessel for baking lamb, Rhodes

Another interesting ceramic.

There were posters and pictures of various ceramic techniques.  We were the only visiters and chatted with the staff person.  She is planning on a visit to Toronto and was unaware of the Gardiner Museum in  Toronto.  We showed her the website and she indicated she would definitely pay it a visit.

Across from the Museum was the Beit Shalom Synagogue, an Orthodox synagogue which serves as the principal place of worship in Athens.  It was constructed in 1935 in the Greek Revival style  by the Sephardic community of Athens and is built of white pentelic marble.  The building was renovated in 1975. 

Outside of the synagogue- there were guards down the street and it is only accessible by appointment

There is a bronze covered wall that is dedicated to the Athenian Jewish victims of the Holocaust. They were captured by the Nazis in the synagoge in March 1944 as they gathered in the synagogue just prior to Passover.

Erected in2925

Memorial

We then decided to walk to Volvi, a souvlaki place recommended by the barista at Underdog.  He said that he goes there all the time and that the souvlaki is great.  It is a small hole in the wall place in the Central Market.

Volvi-- delicious beef souvlaki in the pita with tomato, onion and mustard and red pepper flakes

After our souvflaki, we decided to walk to the nearby Mokka coffee shop we had visited on our food tour.

We shared a delicious bowl of sheep yogurt with honey.  
The yogurt is very thick and delicious and the Geeek honey is excellent.

Having my Greek coffee at Mokka-- one pours the hot coffee into the cup and lets it sit two minutes before drinking.  Then one must be careful not to drink the grounds at the bottom of the cup.

We headed back towards Syntagma Square, the main sqaure in Athens, in which the Hellenic Parliament building is located.   We walked along a pedestrian street, Ermou, which had a number of big box stores- much like any other city.   We did check out the basketball themed store owned by Giannis Antetokounmpo, who was born in Athens and who plays for the Milwaukee Bucks, and his four brothers.  

The Antekounbros store- videos of Giannis and lots of basketball gear inside

We continued our walk to Syntagma square.  Our timing was perfect.  There was a crowd gathering to watch the 6:00 p.m. changing of the guard ceremony.  The changing of the guard takes place at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier every hour on the hour.  It involves a small group of Evzones (the Presidential Guard) marching in slow motion to replace the existing guards.  The Evzones are an elite light infantry unit known for their distinctive uniforms and highly disciplined conduct. The Presidential Gaurd was constituted in 1868,

Crowd gathering at the Parliament Building

The Evzones are known for their traditional uniforms, including the fustanella (Greek kilt) and tsarouchia (traditional leather shoes with the wonderful pompoms.)

The ceremony in slow motion

Very precise movements

Checking out the guard's clothing-- the soldier in camouflage adjusted the Evzone's kilt

Both new guards are at their stations-- the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier was created between 1930-32 and depicts a dead soldier lying down while holding a shield and wearing an ancient Greek-style helmet.

The Evzones also guard the nearby Presidential Mansion.

We continued our walk around the corner from the Square, on a wide street with many embassies and Greek government buildings.

Greek Ministry of Foreign Affairs

Italian Embassy

Mural display on railings on one side of the street- Natura 2000-
celebrating the protection of natural heritage in Greece

We turned the corner and walked down a leafy street with many large homes.  One of them was the Prime Minister's Office.  The Maximos Mansion has been the official seat of the Prime Minister of Greece since 1982.  It is a Neo-classical building completed in 1921 by a wealthy ship owner.  His widow married Dimitrios Maximos, a banker and politician.  Between 1941-1944, during the Nazi occupation of Greece the mansion was used as the residence of the German Admiral of the Aegean Sea.  

After the war, the building was briefly used as the residence of the US ambassador in Athens.  In 1952, Maximos sold the mansion to the Greek state.  From the mid-50s until 1982, the mansion was used as a guesthouse for importatnt foreign dignitaries.  In 1982, Andreas Papandreou moved the Prime Minister's office from the Parliament buildings to the mansion.  Due to its rather small size, there have been various proposals to move the  Prime Minister's office to a new location.  It is located next to the Presidential Mansion and the National Garden of Athens.

Walking down the street bordering the National Garden

The Prime Minister's Residence

Up close to one of the guards in front of  the Presidential Mansion. 

I walked right in front of the sole guard in the booth in front of the Presidential Mansion.  He didn't blink an eyelash.  They must remain completely still.

After all our walking, it was now about 7:30 p.m.  We decided to return to Ohh Boy for dinner.  It was lovely to sit outside and a number of small restaurants and cafés on the street had illuminated trees.  Very pretty.

Allan had a chicken fillet on lemon yogurt with peppers, asparagus and potatoes and a glass of red wine.

Leaving the restaurant- lights on the trees as we walked down the street

Another wonderful day in Athens.  Allan and I both did over 20,000 steps.  A record for this trip.  Thursday will be our last full day in the city.   On Friday, we fly back to Toronto.  

I will be doing my last post from the trip when we return to Toronto.  It has been a terrific adventure discovering new Greek islands and revisiting vibrant Athens.  Lots of history, culture, art, food, sun and blue skies.